As some of you know I'm planning on participating in the Scooter Cannonball Run (SCR) this year and, of course, I'm already planning out my kit. While there are plenty of Iron Butt and other other Adventure Riders who are more traveled than I, I believe I've got enough experience, and have payed attention to enough experts to help advise people who haven't been on long rides before.
You'll find a lot of posts out there where people listed what they have in their kits, but you'll rarely see any details about why they chose the particular items. I think the why is frequently as important as the what. You may not want the same particular items as me, but by seeing why I've chosen the items will hopefully help you choose similar items for yourself, or at the very least, engender some discussion about what things I've left out, or what things might be unnecessary. So, please comment.
Keep in mind that while the SCR is going from Vancouver BC to Portland ME this year and spending the nights in motels along the way, I'll be riding from Boston MA up through the lower part of Canada and across a mountain range to get to the starting line, and in order to save pennies and have more fun, I'll be camping all the way to Vancouver. Also, some of the equipment here is better than you really need for traveling across First World countries like Canada and the US. There are two reasons for that. The first is that I've been acquiring gear for a trans-Africa trip (hopefully next year), and the second is that I hate compromising when it comes to my safety, so I save my pennies for the most protective gear I can get, which isn't cheap. There are a number of expensive items here. I can afford them primarily because of a concerted effort to buy almost nothing except books and motorcycle gear, and I already own some of the items. Buying stuff off-season doesn't hurt either.
Below you'll find a listing of what I intend to take and the thinking behind each choice. My goal isn't to convince you to make the same choices as me, but instead, to give you a viewpoint with enough information to make more educated decisions for yourself. More importantly, you should not feel you
need any of this to start your adventure. Get whatever you can afford and go for it. These things make life easier and safer but all you really
need is a decent bike, some gas money, and some good fortune. For more advice about kits and everything else related to long distance MC riding Horizons Unlimited
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ and ADV Rider
http://www.advrider.com/ are probably your best resources. Also,
my last post covers some of the tech gadgets (iPhone, GPS, helmet cam) in more detail.
The most common mistake people make when packing for a long distance trip is packing too much. If there's any doubt, throw it out. The fact that you can fit it is not a good enough reason to take it.
On the body (from the ground up): MC boots with armored heels, toes, etc.
People ignore their feet, but there are far too many stories of riders getting their foot trapped under a fallen bike and having the flesh ground off as they slide down the road. Leather's going to help prevent grinding and the armor's going to help keep the weight of the bike from crushing your heel bone.
TourMaster Rain booties.
For Africa I'll probably get some new boots that are waterpoof and armored, but in an attempt to minimize expenses I'll just keep on with my current boots and rain-booties. Without the rain booties water just pours in. I don't understand how so much can get in so fast. I find myself riding in the rain a lot, and on a long distance ride it's just a question of "when" not "if" you'll get rained on. The TourMaster booties are easy to put on and work well. They're open at the bottom though, so not intended for wading through deep puddles.
REV'IT Cayenne Pro Pants
REV'IT is widely regarded as making the best MC gear available, and in addition to being the only manufacturer using SuperFabric (that I'm aware of) the armor in the SAS Tech armor in these is 50% more impact absorbent than the requirements for a CE Level 2 rating. Check out the reviews of REV'IT gear on WebBikeWorld. I'm not sure what pants I'd get if I needed a more affordable option.
REV'IT Cayenne Pro Jacket
Same logic as the pants. If I couldn't afford the Cayenne Pro I think I'd probably go with the FirstGear Kilamanjaro. Decent protection, much more affordable.
SAS-TEC back Armor
Back armor is relatively cheap ($50 or less), and not uncomfortable at all. There's no good reason to go without it. This particular one will become more flexible and conform to your back shape as it warms up. It's protection doesn't go down as its flexibility goes up.
FastLane Pass
This is one of those transponders that lets you ride through toll-booths without having to stop. Fiddling for cash or coins at toll booths while wearing motorcycle gloves is a royal pain. I doubt I'll need it on the SCR as we won't be on the highways but it's small and lightweight and awesome to have. I typically have it in a chest pocket.
Buffs
Original Buff, and
Cyclone Buff. Buffs are awesome for motorcyclists. There's always one around my neck when riding. If it's cold or wet it'll be the Cyclone Buff. The rest of the time it'll be the Original. There are two primary reasons for this: bugs, and hypothermia, plus a host of secondary reasons. Like it or not little bugs ping off your neck just like they do your helmet. With Buff around your neck you don't feel them and because it's a soft cushion of cloth not a hard barrier they don't splat on it. When the temperature starts to drop the cold wind doesn't just become unpleasant, it starts causing serious pain as it blows across your neck at riding speeds. Even worse, your Jugular vein and Carotid artery are moving a lot of blood just under the surface of your skin and you can loose a surprising amount of body heat just by cold wind blowing across your neck at these speeds. This is when the Cyclone Buff comes in. Yes, you could use a scarf, but the Buff is going to be much more effective, less hassle, and it'll take up far less space when you're not using it. Also, you can wear it bandana style which will keep the bottom of your jaw warm too, or balaclava style under your helmet if it's
really cold.
Other advantages: you can wear them bandanna style when there's too much dust, pollution, or noxious smell in the air. The Cyclone buff will make a nice thermal hat or balaclava, and the regular one is great for avoiding helmet head. If you've got long hair they're even more indispensable because you can just pull it out into a long tube to keep all your hair out of the way when you're bending over, it's windy, or you're just sick of it being in the way.
They've also got a version of the Original that's
impregnated with insect repellent that will, they claim, survive up to seventy washes. This is tempting, but I've already got a few Original Buffs. They're part of my everyday wardrobe.
Respro Foggy
I've just ordered this, and haven't had a chance to test it out, but it seems to be one of those wonderfully simple solutions to a very real problem.
HJC IS-16 Helmet.
Well reviewed helmet with an inner-sun visor that doesn't cost an arm and a leg or weigh a ton. In general all helmets are going to do a good job of keeping your head safe. Spending extra money basically determines how many bells and whistles you get in addition to that safety. As I mentioned in
my last post, I keep finding myself riding into twilight without the chance, or time, to pull over and switch to a clear visor. I'll only ride with a full face helmet because approximately 35% of all helmet impacts occur along the jawline. WebBikeWorld is the place to go for more information about helmets (sizing, safety, reviews, and more). I haven't purchased this yet, but if I do end up with a different helmet it'll be something similar to this.
P.O.V. Helmet Camera
Without doubt this is a luxury, and a pricey one at that. But you can get a half-way decent helmet-cam for about $200. Lots of details on these in
my last post.
Scala Rider Q2 Bluetooth headset
Another nice-to-have and one that I may not bother with. I'll feel weird with a camera
and a headset on the helmet. I don't use it for talking to other people since I don't have a pillion, or anyone I frequently ride with, but in the US and Canada it's great for hearing the GPS tell you where to go. I may take it but leave the boom-mic in a bag. Note that having speakers in helmets is illegal in many states. I'm not sure about Canada. AMA has the details for the US here though
http://www.amadirectlink.com/legisltn/laws.aspClothes (2 sets)
The set I'm wearing, and a spare in case the former gets wet or is being washed. Jeans should be of the practical, rather than stylish, variety. Heavy-duty and ready to get dirt and grime ground into the knees. The people you're riding with won't care if you're wearing yesterday's clothes and the people you encounter along the way won't know. Plus, no matter how fresh your clothes are you're going to be sweaty and stinky by the end of a long day. I'll also bring one fleece. They're great when you need the extra warmth and you can roll it up to make a pillow if it's a warm night.
Converse All-Stars
Any comfortable pair of low-top shoes will do. The point is to have something to walk around in (since motorcycle boots are rarely very good at that) that won't take up as little space as possible in your bags.
Camelbak
This is absolutely critical. Non-negotiable. I will not set out on another long ride without one. It allows you to go longer without stopping, helps prevent headaches (familiarize yourself with the symptoms of dehydration), and the act of finding the tube, threading it under your helmet, and drinking is a nice distraction on those really boring strips of road.
Currently I have the
M.U.L.E NV but I wouldn't recommend that particular model for bikers. I'm either going to downgrade to a
2 liter one with no storage that I can wear under my jacket, or force myself to just not use the storage in the current one, and not fill it all the way. Three liters is more than you need unless you're going across the Sahara and it the weight of it can cause a lot of back pain after a while. Plus, if you have storage in it, like the M.U.L.E. does you'll use it, and that means more weight on your back. On the other hand the M.U.L.E. NV has a built in rain cover that is sewn in at the bottom and lives in a tiny pocket. You can pull it out quickly and the elastic holds up great against the wind.
The competing brands are probably fine too. One important thing to have, regardless of what brand, is a 90 degree bite-valve (comes out at a right-angle from the tube). The reason is that the tube is going to be coming from the side and it's much easier to not have to curve it out and then back in towards your mouth. With an L shaped end it'll angle itself right in This is especially important with a full face helmet because it's hard to snake it up under the chin guard while riding. I'd also recommend the drying kit. Usually a couple pieces of plastic that keep the bladder open while drying. It's not a necessity, and you will probably never take the time to dry out your Camelbak during your trip
but you'll appreciate it after the trip.
On a related note. Some of the better adventure jackets have a place near the left shoulder where you can thread the Camelback's tube out of. This is a feature worth paying a little extra for, because otherwise the wind tends to move the tube around to the place that's most difficult for you to reach, and impossible to see, while riding.
Motorcycle Gloves
1 winter pair, one summer pair. Make sure at least one of the pairs is waterproof, or get some over-gloves. Spraying your leather gloves with ScotchGuard type waterproofing is useless against any real rain at 50 MPH. You need gloves or overgloves that are specifically marketed as waterproof. If not Murphy will arrange for you to get soaked on the coldest day of your ride. The need for winter ones is debatable. Use your best judgment based on the worst weather you'll be passing through.
Some notes about the wearable gear:
I choose gear based on safety and practicality. If it looks good, that's a bonus. I've also learned the hard way that while there are a lot of advantages to a good one-piece suit they absolutely suck if you end up having to do any strenuous physical activity in them (like push your bike when it breaks down or gets stuck). The problem is that, like most MC gear, they're designed to be cooled by the wind flowing over them while riding, but unlike a jacket, if you unzip the front they don't hang wide open because the waist being permanently attached all the way around prevents them from hanging open. An unzipped jacket will hang wide open, and if that's not cool enough you can take it off. With a one-piece you can take off the top but it'll hang don behind your legs, threaten to pull the pants part don, and generally be annoying. It also sucks when you want to sit down to eat somewhere.
Layers are always a good thing. Make sure you can fit a fleece, or a sweater, under your coat, and make sure you are prepared for the cold if you're heading north or over some mountains. It can, and will sneak up on you. Remember it's not what the average temperature is where you're going. It's what the average temperature minus the effects of 50+ MPH wind-chill.
http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/windchill/ Waterproofing: There are two approaches to waterproofing. Either you wear garments where the outer shell is waterproof or you wear ones where you have to put on a waterproof liner. There are pros and cons to both. FirstGear and FieldSheer both make good mid-priced adventure gear with waterproof outer shells. The advantage to this is that when it starts raining all you have to do is zip closed your air vents. There's no need to pull over, dig through your bags for your waterproof liners, take off your coat and pants, and put on the liners, then put on the coat and pants again. If your riding pants aren't designed to go over jeans this means you'll be standing there in your undies for a minute while you fiddle with this. Sometimes the rain can sneak up on you, or hit much faster than you expect. And sometimes you'll find yourself riding through alternating patches of showers and sunlight. In these situations it's really nice be able to just zip and unzip your main vents without stopping. If your jacket has a rain-liner you're generally limited to opening and closing the main zipper because the rain liner, in an attempt to stop water from getting in, also stops the wind from getting in. The main downside to a waterproof outer shell is that contrary to what they claim the waterproofing (essentially a sheet of really thin plastic) does affect the breathability of the material and over time (years) it will break down.
Separate thermal layer: The nicer jackets come with a separate thermal layer that looks like a slightly puffy windbreaker and can be worn around without the outer shell. I've found this to be a really nice feature, especially when the night's a little cooler than you were expecting, or the day is too warm to walk around in the full jacket but too cool to wear just a t-shirt. The thing to check is how much of a pain it is, or isn't, to attach the cuffs to the inside of the outer shell, and how easy it is to zip the torso section to the outer shell. Also, is there anything over your sternum besides zippers? A good jacket will thoroughly protect the main zipper from the wind and hopefully give you a little thermal protection there too. Otherwise you may find that overall you're warm but there's a line down the center front of your that's notably chilly.
If you can't afford the REV'IT gear (few can) look at what features they have and get the jacket that comes closest to it. If my planning breaks down and I down have enough pennies to upgrade to the REV'IT this year I'll most likely go with the FirstGear Kilimanjaro jacket.
Like I said, make sure you have enough room to fit a fleece on under your coat. But, even if you do, one thing you need to know is how hard it is to get off when you're drenched in sweat. I have one jacket that fits fine, but when I'm sweating it sticks to me like a second skin, and is nearly as difficult to remove. So, the next time you take a shower, bring your jacket in the bathroom with you. Stay in long enough to get the room, the jacket, and you, all hot and steamy. Then as soon as you get out of the shower put on the jacket in it's coolest configuration without drying off first. The fabric will cling to you as you put it on, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Now, move your arms around a little and after a minute, try taking the jacket off. Hopefully it'll just be a little sticky, not stuck. It's better to find this out in your bathroom than in the middle of some hot ride. I should also note that under normal conditions I rarely ever sweat, but with sun beating down on you for hours and hours of riding and a jacket covering your torso and arms.... The point being that how much you sweat on an average day doesn't have much bearing on how much you'll sweat during a long hot day on the road.
As a final note, you'll notice that there is no back-pack there. Well, maybe the storage in the Camelback but as I noted I'm probably going to get one without storage. Even if you absolutely need the extra carrying space and all you have is a back-pack, find a way to secure it to your bike. Eventually the weight will start giving you some serious back pain or shoulder pain. It's simply not worth it.
On the bike Expanded tank, spare tank, or gas can.
I won't go out on any real ride without at least 200 miles worth of gas. That would be too little for a trip across Africa or South America. Know what your mileage is at various speeds and how hilly terrain will effect it. Then assume it's going to be worse than that. I found that in the US the farthest I could ride along one road without seeing a gas station was about 100 miles, but you can't count on that because when you do see a gas station you rarely know if it's the last one you're going to see in a while or just another one in a string them. For the Scooter Cannonball Run I'll be adding a spare tank to the bike. Most scooters aren't designed with tanks for long rides.
Custom seat
The need for this depends a lot on the seat that comes with your bike and what your but thinks of it after eight hours. Some bikes have seats that are absolutely NOT designed for distance riding.
Carabiners
The real kind that are designed to keep a mountain-climber from falling to their death. I carried 5 carabiners on the last trip 4
simple ones and one
screwgate. I used them to guarantee than no matter what happened the cargo net, and the items it covered, could not be lost. If you pack well you can get multiple applications from each one. There was one near each corner of the cargo net and they would run through the handles on the dry-sac, the tent bag, and the spare fuel-can. Even if everything went horribly wrong, if i went through the mother of all pot-holes and everything came loose, nothing would fall off of the bike. In fact, if it weren't for precautions like this I would have lost my spare gas can.
Also, I find that the helmet-lock on most bikes is either a pain in the butt to use or inaccessible when your bikes is loaded, so I'd just hook it to the bike with the screwgate carabiner. At $6-9 a piece they're one of the best investments I think you can make because there are so many good uses for them.
Cargo Net
At $3
a cargo net is a great thing to have. There's not much say about them. Just remember that you really need to keep a lot of tension against the hooks or it'll fall off. I use mine to hold down my tent, my dry-sack, and my spare gas can if I'm carrying one.
Dry Sac (dry bag)
Like the Camelbak, this is a non-negotiable item. I've got a Sea to Summit eVac Dry Sack. The only things that didn't get soaked on my trip were the things in there. If it absolutely must stay dry put it in a Dry Sack. About the only excuse for not using one is if you've got Pelican cases (see below), even then you still might want to use one just in case you take a tumble and your case breaks. You simply can't afford to not have a dry sleeping bag and dry clothes. Hypothermia is nothing to screw around with and it doesn't have to be very cold to start suffering from it.
In mine will be the sleeping bag, the spare set of clothes, the bike's service manual, the paper map, and the novel. I
may end up getting a second one to go inside one of the panniers, but I don't think I'll need to.
Sleeping Bag
Not needed for the SCR itself but needed for my trip going there. It's important to get a sleeping bag that's rated for below the temperatures you're going to be sleeping in, and remember that if a bag says it's rated for, say 30 degrees F, that means you'll probably survive in 30 deg weather without wearing any warm clothing but it'll be a miserable night. If you want to actually be comfortable at the rated temperature assume you'll have to wear thermal underwear, or a fleece, or something of that sort. In general a good sleeping bag costs more than you want to spend, but it's really not something you can compromise on. You need one that'll keep hypothermia away and you need one that's going to take up minimal space. This really is a health issue, not a comfort issue. Shop around, but definitely get one that's going to be warm enough.
Sleeping Pad
I don't care how bad-ass you think you are. The ground is hard and frequently covered with little pointy rocks right where you need to set up your tent. I've got a
Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite.
I haven't had a chance to test it out in the real world but they've got great reviews and it is probably the most compact foam pad with any real thickness. Personally I don't trust inflatable mats. I don't care how great the reviews are, or how durable they claim to be. Accidents happen and if one does you're back to sleeping on pointy rocks.
Tent
Strapped across the back. I've got a
L.L. Bean Microlight Solo that I took on the last trip. I don't intend to use it this time. It's a great tent but you'll want a spare person's worth of space for your gear. Also, if you're stuck waiting out a storm you'll want a tent with headroom to relax in rather than barely sit up in one specific spot. Of course, I ride rain-or shine so this isn't as big of a deal. I'm currently leaning towards
REI's Quarter Dome T2 tent for a variety of reasons. There are some good alternatives that're cheaper (especially now, after Christmas) and would be perfectly decent for crossing the US but I want something that'll work well in Africa too, and it seems silly, and a waste of money, to buy a tent this year and another one next year.
Do not begin your trip without practicing putting up your tent. The first time I had to put up my tent on my trip for real it was pitch black and I was fighting heat-stroke. I was very very thankful to have a tent that was easy to erect and that I was familiar with. The Microlight Solo was so easy to erect I did it primarily by touch without the flashlight because I wanted both hands and I didn't have a headlamp, and couldn't get my bike in to the camp-site.
As for helping you choose a tent... There's really too much that goes into it to go into here, and tons of great articles on the subject, but I would make these notes:
- You want one that is very compact when dismantled.
- You want one with one additional person's worth of space. If you're the only one, then get a two person tent. If you're traveling with a friend, then get a three person tent. This is to guarantee you'll have a dry place for all your crap. It'll also provide space where you can drape or hang things to dry. You can make do without this extra space and stick some things in the vestibule outside the door but you're pretty much guaranteed to find them covered in condensation when you get up in the morning.
- Lighter is better, but this is a compromise because the additional person's worth of space means more fabric, which means more weight.
- Look for the "ultralight" tents. They're lighter and typically smaller when packed. They're generally not great for the winter though.
- Reviews provide critical advice, but I've found that most of the worst reviews seem to be from people who really don't understand how to properly use a tent or what they should expect from one. For example, many people don't understand that a "2 person tent" is one that is designed to fit two human bodies, not two humans and all their crap. Many people also don't understand how to handle ventilation to prevent condensation inside the tent. So take reviews from newbs with a grain of salt, and pay close attention to people who've been camping for years.
- Some tents, like the Microlight Solo, aren't free standing. They require some semi-soft substance to drive your tent stakes into or they will not stay up. This means you will not be able to erect them on rock and may find it nigh-impossible to erect them in loose sand.
- It seems to be a common practice to include enough tent stakes to erect the tent but frequently not enough to stake out every point. So, read up and make sure you have enough stakes, plus a couple extras in case you loose one.
- Bring something you can use to drive in the tent stakes. Do not count on being able to find a good sized rock nearby.
Panniers (not saddlebags)
I've done soft-cases. I'd rather not do it again. They sag, there's absolutely no theft protection, and nothing in them stays dry unless it's in a dry sack, or the saddlebag itself itself is a dry-sac, but that's uncommon. If I had to choose a soft pannier I think I'd take something like the
Ortlieb Dry Bag Saddlebags. If you go with soft saddlebags make sure that they don't rub your rear tire when fully loaded. Lots of people swear by aluminum panniers but it's effing expensive to get a set. I've also read a fair number of complaints about them bending out of shape after minor tumbles. Personally I like knowing that with a hard-case I can lock it and walk away knowing that they'll be safe from all but the most determined thieves.
If I could afford it I'd get some
Caribou cases, which run a little over $700 with mounting rack. If you're on a tighter budget, consider getting a set of
Pelican cases (you can get decent sized ones for under $50 each on eBay) and having a local metal-shop fabricate mounting rack for your bike if no-one makes one you for your bike / scooter. There's nothing wrong with making your own, but it's better to get pre-made ones because the people who make them know way more about the finer points of motorcycle weight distribution, effects on your bike's frame, and safety than the average rider ever will. Caribou cases are literally just customized Pelican cases. Doing it yourself gives you the additional option of having top-opening panniers, instead of Caribou's side opening ones. And, you have more sizes to choose from. On the other hand Caribou's cases have a mechanism to lock them to the mounting rack.
If you go the custom route be sure to read up on what too keep in mind when designing the mounting rack. There are a number of examples if you read through the forums on Horizons Unlimited. It's not just about attaching them the bike. It's about making them easy to remove, but hard to steal, and making sure they'll break away at the appropriate time and not screw up your bike's frame in the process should things go horribly wrong.
A top-case would be nice but I don't think I'll have space for one on the new bike.
You will be tempted to buy the biggest panniers or saddlebags you can. Don't allow yourself to do this. It just encourages you to bring more crap.
Tank Bag (not for SCR)
Not really an option for the SCR folk (no tank to stick it on), so I won't be using one this trip. But, if I was buying a new tank bag I think I'd get the
Icon Urban because being able to just grab it and carry it as a backpack when you need to leave your bike is excellent. The ability to attach your helmet is pretty cool too. Tank bags are way too easy to steal, and because of that you should never leave anything valuable in yours.
Beware of large tank bags (the Icon Urban
is fairly big). The tall ones get in the way of seeing your gauges, and the extra space encourages you to bring crap you don't need.
Spare tire
I'm not sure what I'll strap this to yet. Be sure to practice changing a tire yourself before you leave on your trip.
iPhone RAM Mount
I'll use it, probably, because I have it, not because mounting an iPhone is a particularly great idea. BUT if I had a normal GPS unit I'd definitely get a RAM mount for that.
Powerlet plug and iPhone adapter
GPS on the iPhone (not a great idea, see
my last post) devours your battery in nothing flat. You gotta be able to charge the thing.
Moto power adapter for the P.O.V. camera.
No point in wasting batteries when I can plug it in and it draws such a small amount of power.
SPOT Satellite Messenger
This is a great product, and in addition to all the nice-to have's, can warn emergency services that you need help anywhere (except the open ocean and a huge section of Africa). The downside is that in addition to the cost of the hardware ($150 for the newest model) there's a $99 annual service fee, and if you'd like your friends to be able to track your progress that'll cost an additional $49 a year, and there's another $7.95 per year for upgraded search and rescue insurance (probably a good idea). If you want damage, theft, loss insurance on the hardware that'll be another $17.99 per year (with a $30 deductible). So, you're talking $300+ for the first year and about $180 for each year thereafter. Depending on where you're traveling this could be a great value. If things go horribly wrong it could be an incredible value. I don't have one yet, but I'm thinking it's worth it to adjust my budget to figure out how to afford one for this trip.
It should be noted that I've seen a lot of people link to the SPOT tracking site for their trip and had it simply not work. This was always when I followed a link a year or more after their trip happened, which makes me think that when you stop paying for the annual service your account gets disabled and you'll no longer be able to show people where you went on your great trip... at least not with SPOT. It's annoying for customers and, in my opinion, makes SPOT look bad. Either their web based tracking services can't be trusted, or they are really stingy. It's not like it costs them anything more to keep the old map of your trip available, but not let you update it. Either way people are going to the site attempting to look at it and consuming bandwidth. It's just a question of if it works or appears broken.
Notes:
I find that having your dry-sack with the sleeping bag, or the tent bag up against the small of your back to be a nice impromptu back-rest. It's also really nice to pull over to the side of the road after four hours and just lay backwards, arching your back over the nice soft mound and just relax there for a few minutes.
Also, heated grips are the bomb. Cheap, and oh so wonderful, but I don't believe I'll need them on this trip so I'll hold off on buying them... again.
In the Panniers
(and pockets)
- 2 spare inner-tubes
- 1 set spare brake pads.
- I'll be riding something with drum brakes. If I were riding something with disc brakes I wouldn't bother.
- tire levers
- puncture repair kit
- a few spare spokes
- spare headlight and tail-light bulbs
- spare ignition key
- padlock
- probably for the Pelican cases.
- spare brake and clutch lever
- they're cheap and they can break off from a standing fall if it hits wrong (I've lost two that way) and you will be absolutely screwed without either of them.
- tire gauge
- old-school pen style. They work and they fit in between disks and rims where some of the fancy digital ones don't. I don't really care if it's not as precise.
- motorcycle jumper cables (car ones will work fine too but they're comparatively huge)
- spare spark plug(s)
- make sure you have a spark plug remover if you can't use a normal wrench or pliers.
- siphon
- Hopefully I'll never need it.
- ultra-compact umbrella
- probably, maybe... space permitting.
- Stubby GearWrench set.
- Only the ones that fit my bike and without the plastic case
- First-Aid Kit in a soft case
- The soft case is important. The ones in hard plastic cases take up more space and don't have the give you need when shoving stuff in to your limited storage space. Be sure to add some spare painkillers of your preferred brand. Me, I go with Pamprin. Trust me guys, it's the best headache stuff out there BUT be sure to not use Asprin or anything with Magnesium Salicylate while riding because they thin the blood. And thinned blood pours out faster if you get a bad cut. Pamprin has Magnesium Salicylate. Acetaminophen or ibuprofen do not. So, if you need something while riding go with one of those. If you already have a first aid kit, but not a soft bag for it, Ortlieb makes a dry sac specifically for first aid kits. It's a great idea because that's another thing you absolutely don't want to get wet. This is the route I'll be going since I already have a kit.
- Headlamp
- The kind you see hikers wearing at night. There's a reason they wear those. Mine's a 50 Lumen one from PETZL, but you can get ones around 30 Lumens fairly cheaply (under $20). Sooner or later you're going to need to futz around with your bags or your bike after the sun goes down, and if your bike breaks down in the dark you will be very thankful to have one of these. Alternatively, a wind-up flashlight. I took it on the last trip and it was excellent. You never have to worry about batteries, they've got white LEDs so it takes very little power and is very bright, but it takes a hand to hold one.
- Spork
- I brought one of these last time just because it was neat. It turned out to be invaluable when eating leftovers.
- 1 Ziplock Snap 'n Seal Container
- The square sandwich sized one. Perfect for leftovers. I'd frequently get a large lunch or dinner, stick the leftovers in this, and eat it for my next meal. It was always either dirty, filled with food, or clean but about to be filled with food, so don't count on being able to store anything else in it.
- Small roll of duct tape (or similar).
- A small bunch of long zip-ties.
- Leatherman Wave
- A good multitool is an absolute necessity. They're just WAY too useful. I took a Swiss Army knife last time but i really wanted one with decent pliers this time, so I got a Leatherman.
- 40 bit assortment for the Leatherman Wave.
- I doubt I'll need it but it is really thin (surprisingly so), cheap, and potentially very useful.
- Spare non-rechargeable batteries for headlamp and P.O.V. camera (that'll probably never need them).
- rechargeables die too fast and when you're going from campground to campground you can't count on having access to a plug for long enough to recharge them when they happen to die.
- Odwalla Bars
- As many as I have space for. Mostly the Superfood and Super Protein ones.
- Reusable ear plugs.
- I'll probably throw in a couple pairs of disposable foam ones in case I loose the good ones, because they weigh nothing and don't take up any space. Road noise on a motorcycle is definitely loud enough to cause permanent hearing loss over time. I'd like to keep my hearing thank you very much.
- Compact bicycle hand-pump.
- Yes, they work perfectly well on motorcycle and scooter tires. This item is non-negotiable. It doesn't require electricity like an electric pump, and it takes up less space. Worst-case scenario you have to push a bike with bad electric and a flat tire. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to inflate that tire? It's really not that big of a deal to do it with a bicycle pump.
- Moleskine
- I like recording my day the old fashioned way. As a bonus, you don't need to plug anything in or worry about battery power for it to work. Don't forget to bring a couple pens.
- Laptop
- for backing up photos and video to. Do not count on being able to actually connect to the internet except from the occasional McDonalds. Preferably something small that you won't be terribly concerned to find crushed under your bike. Maybe one of those little netbooks that're getting cheaper by the day. Think small and disposable, not powerful or good.
- iPhone
- The iPhone rocks, but AT&Ts coverage sucks so don't count on being able to use it for an emergency an definitely don't count on having a data connection anywhere except big cities. I've got the TomTom GPS app on mine. There are definitely better options. See my last post for more details. I have a 3Gs so this doubles as my compass, music player, calculator, watch, alarm, and backup camera. Any photos you take with it are tagged with the location so even if I'm taking good pics with a better camera I'll take a quick shot with the iPhone of the same thing so that I'll know exactly where each of the good pics was taken. Also, you can post pictures from your phone (when you're lucky enough to have signal) so you can keep your friends updated on your travels. If you're bringing one you might want to consider getting an iPhone dry sac to guarantee it stays dry.
- Gorillapod flexible tripod
- I may not bring this. I'm undecided. It's small and light though and will enable me to take pictures of myself. I'm not sure if I actually would take pictures of myself though. I think I would.
- Cash
- Yeah yeah, cards are great, and have lots of advantages, but cash works everywhere and hunting for ATMs sucks. I'm not suggesting pay for everything with cash. But, I'd recommend you try and keep a hundred bucks on you (in the US at least).
- Map
- One of those paper things with all the lines and the folds that doesn't require batteries and won't cost you hundreds of dollars to replace if it gets wet.
- Hat
- Something like this, but hopefully cheaper. You can roll them up, crush them, and shove them into whatever space you have available. Good for when you're not on your bike and it's either shining brightly or raining hard. Worst case scenario I'll just bring a baseball cap. Just something to keep the rain and sun out of your eyes when you're not wearing a helmet.
- Bike Lock
- Probably a Kryptonite U-lock style one, since the scooter I'll be taking doesn't have disc brakes. It's not going to prevent the bike from being stolen but I see no reason to make it easy for them. Also one of those bright disc lock reminder cables that goes from the lock up to your handlebars so you don't accidentally start to drive off and destroy your wheel, forks, etc.
- Decent point and shoot digital camera
- DSLRs are great but they take up too much space and it'll take so long to get it out of your bags that you'll miss the moment. Get something that you can throw in a waterproof pocket on your coat and don't for get the charger for its battery.
- Travel sized WD40
- one rag
- I regretted not having one last time. If nothing else your hands are going to get dirty inflating and deflating your tires to compensate for elevation and temperature changes.
- bike's service manual (not owner's manual)
- Actually this will be in the dry sac.
- one, unstarted novel
- The thicker the better. No Kindle (to fragile and expensive). Never leave home without a book. Last time I brought a book I'd already started. That was a mistake as I finished it half-way through the trip.
- Tie Downs
- I brought tie-downs last time and they were heavy, and took up a fair amount of space. But, I figure they'd be damn useful if you needed to throw your bike in the back of someone's truck. Also, they're long enough (especially if you have two) to act as a 20 foot rope, so I save space there. I figure that if my bike ends up down a ditch that I would have trouble getting it out of I may be able to attach one end to a tree or rock and then use the ratchet to bring it up. Wouldn't be fast, but it should work. Of course, this may just be wishful thinking.
- AMA Membership card
- gives me road-side assistance and supports a great organization. Note that AAA has a horrible reputation when it comes to supporting motorcyclists and scooterists. There are a few roadside assistance plans you can get from other companies that specialize in helping motorcyclists. Go with one of them.
- Nothing solar powered
- The tech still sucks and even if it didn't you wouldn't be sitting still in one place with direct sunlight long enough to charge anything. If it's sunny, you're probably going to be on the road. If it's not, they're useless.
- Toiletries
- soap
- shampoo / conditioner (small bottles)
- hairbrush
- forgetting this last time really sucked.
- toothbrush
- toothpaste
- small mirror
- Sunscreen
- UV one billion (or whatever's closest)
- insect repellent (in a zip-lock baggie)
- Towel
- A travel towel, not a normal one. Go to your local R.E.I., L.L. Bean, or equivalent. There are incredibly compact travel towels available now. I'm not fully convinced of the efficacy of the ultra-small ones, but there are definitely some compact ones that'll get the job done. You want something that will dry as quickly as possible and will take up as little space as possible.
- Flushable Baby Wipes
- A lot of people recommend carrying some toilet paper. I go with flushable baby wipes because they can be used as toilet paper, but also for cleaning hands, face, bike, whatever. Better than a "moist towlette" any day.
Notes:
- I'm considering bringing a cheap multimeter, and I probably should, but I'm not sure what I would do with it beyond go "Yup. There's power in that cord" or "Nope. There's no power in that cord" either of which would be followed by "but I don't know what that cord goes to, or what to do about it."
- If I didn't have transition lenses in my glasses, and a built-in sun-visor in my helmet I might pack some sunglasses.
- Probably no bungies. Many will disagree with decision, hopefully I won't regret it.
- No water purification items as there's no need during a North American road trip.
- No food beyond the protein bars, as acquiring food won't be a problem.
- No cooking equipment. Dinner is typically leftovers from lunch purchased on the road, and I'm not so picky that I need to have it heated. There are some very compact cooking supplies out there (check out JetBoil), and while I do think it would be nice to have it's just not worth the space on a North American motorcycle trip.
- No pillow. Roll up your fleece, your spare jeans, your motorcycle jacket, or even use your Camelbak. You'll have plenty of soft things with you so don't waste the space.
- I'm considering getting myself a McDonalds gift card (since they're the most ubiquitous, and cheap, food source in the US). This is just in case I run out of money, or the bank thinks my card has been stolen due to the atypical behavior, or any other financial catastrophe arises. No matter what, I won't be stuck without any food. And it's not like I wouldn't be able to use it later if I don't end up needing it during the trip.
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